Sep032010

Seasonal Maintenance Tips + USDA Zone Map

By Admin | September 3, 2010 | Posted in General Gardening Info | Tagged , , , , | Comments off

Regardless of the season, there is always plenty of ways to continue your outdoor pursuits. Seasonal maintenance is something that is always on-going and something that will help you maintain a beautiful landscape.

Your lawn care responsibilities will vary depending on whether you live in a cool or warm climate. Refer to one of the following checklists that correspond with your weather, and exercise your green-thumb year-round. This will be followed by a USDA plant hardiness zone map below your checklist.

MAINTENANCE for COOL CLIMATES

SPRING Checklist

  • Service lawn mower: sharpen blades, change oil and filter, general tune-up (if you did not do so during winter, the ideal time).
  • Plant annuals appropriate to the climate.
  • Clean up leaves and other debris cluttering beds.
  • Lay fresh mulch in your landscape beds to discourage weed growth and help plant roots retain their moisture.
  • Seed bare spots in your lawn, or over-seed (if you did not do this task in fall).
  • Prevent weeds by applying a pre-emergent application, but consult a lawn are professional first.
  • Spot-treat weeds as needed.
  • Apply slow-acting fertilizer to promote green-up.

SUMMER Checklist

  • Adjust mower to the proper height for your turf variety. Raise the height to alleviate summer stress in cool-season grasses.
  • Water lawn as needed.

FALL Checklist

  • Cut back plant branches after the first hard freeze.
  • Dead-head perennial flowers by pinching off dead blooms, as this will encourage new growth in spring.
  • Aerate your lawn in early fall, if necessary.
  • Seed bare patches or new lawns in early fall to allow time for germination and root development before winter.
  • Remove leaves from your yard and plant beds.
  • Apply a fall fertilizer application.

WINTER Checklist

  • Take your mower in for service before the spring rush (sharpen blades, general tune-up).
  • Snowblowers and snowblower attachments should be prepared for winter use.
  • Conduct an inventory of your tools. What are you missing? What needs to be replaced? Which tools need sharpening or cleaning?
  • Trim back trees and shrubs.( You can trim moderately throughout the year as well).

MAINTENANCE for WARM CLIMATES

Seasonal maintenance is the same when it comes to reminders for equipment maintenance. The same applies in warm climates. But because warm-season grasses love hot, southern weather, spring and summer are the best times to plant your grass.

SPRING and SUMMER

  • Plant new lawns or repair dead spots in your yard.
  • Fertilize and follow a regular lawn care program with pesticide applications as needed. (Note:A professional will best advise your on these preventive and curative applications).
  • Water your lawn as needed.
  • Adjust mower height to appropriate level based on your turf variety, and cut the lawn when needed.
  • Aerate or dethatch, or power rake if necessary.
  • Plant annuals.

FALL and WINTER

  • Service all lawn equipment
  • Lay fresh mulch in beds
  • Water growing lawns on a regular basis.

You will find that seasonal maintenance is the best way to keep all of your chores up to date, and your equipment in tip-top shape.

    USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

    USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

    By Admin | Posted in General Gardening Info | Tagged , , , , | Comments off
    Sep022010

    Fritillaria- Snake’s Head Fritillary & Crown Imperial

    By Admin | September 2, 2010 | Posted in Fritilleria | Tagged , , , , , | Comments off

    The Frittillaria (fritilla’ria) are hardy bulbs which are widely distributed in the North Temperate Zones. They are also called Fritillary. They belong to the Lily family, Liliaceae, and have bell-shaped pendent flowers, most of which are curiously marked with streaks or blotches of various colors. These bulbs do great along with tulips and other spring bulbs.

    crown imperial fritilleria

    Crown Imperial Fritilleria

    There are two distinct groups of Fritillarias. The Crown Imperial, F. imperialis, grows about 3 ft. High and bears yellow, orange-red or red flowers in clusters on the tops of the stems.

    The Meadow or Snake’s Head Fritillaries average size is 10” in height and bears their flowers singly at the ends of the stems. The name Fritillaria is derived from ‘fritillus’, a chessboard, and alludes to the checkerboard coloring of the flowers.

    Planting Requirements

    The Crown Imperial, especially the tall kinds, F. Imperalis and its varieties, require deep, rich

    fritilleria Meleagris

    Snake's Head Fritilleria

    soil. The site is prepared by digging out the topsoil to the depth of 12” and forking well-decayed manure into the subsoil. The topsoil is then replaced and the bulbs are planted 6“ deep and 8” apart, in October. The position should be shaded or at least sheltered from the midday sun. The bulbs should not be disturbed if they bloom well, for they become established rather slowly.

    Rock Gardens

    The dwarf kinds are ideal for cultivating in the rock garden. They should be planted in October, 6” apart and 3 to 4” deep. A slightly shady position is required and the soil should be sandy loam. The bulbs should not be disturbed unnecessarily. Fritillarias can also be cultivated in pots. They are potted in October, one bulb of the large-flowered kins being placed in a 6” pot and three bulbs of the smaller kinds in a 5” pot. The pots of bulbs are kept in a cold frame during the winter and brought into a very cool greenhouse to flower in the spring. The soil is kept moist until the flowers have withered, when water is gradually withheld, and when the foliage has died down the soil is kept dry until the autumn.

    The Snake’s Head Fritillaries may be naturalized in grass and in open spaces among trees and shrubs. They make beautiful displays in the landscape in April.

    How to Propagate Fritillaries

    fritilleria offsets

    Fritilleria Offsets

    Propagation of fritillaries is by offsets. The smaller bulbs are either potted or are planted in a reserve border in October. Plant may also be raised by sowing seeds in posts of sandy soil as soon as they are ripe. The pans are covered with a pane of glass and set in a cold frame until germination takes place. When the seedlings are large enough for transplanting they are pricked out into boxes an eventually transplanted to the open ground. Seedlings take from four to six years to produce flowers.

    The Best Varieties:

    F. imperialis (Crown Imperial), 3 ft. Tall, yellow, and blooms in April. There are also a couple of varieties that have red and orange-red flowers. F. meleagris (Snake’s Head), 12“ tall, purple, and blooms in April also. It can also be found with purple to silvery gray flowered varieties.

    Other varieties are: F. lanceolata, 2 ft., with purple and yellow, F. pudica, 6”, yellow, and F. pyrenaica, 18 in.,with purple flowers, F. recurva, 12”, yellow and scarlet, F. pluriflora, the Adobe Lily, 12”, pinkish-purple. All bloom in spring.

    By Admin | Posted in Fritilleria | Tagged , , , , , | Comments off
    Sep022010

    Fall Color for Your Landscape

    By Admin | September 2, 2010 | Posted in Color in the garden | Tagged , , , , | Comments off

    Many trees and shrubs are very attractive in autumn by reason of the rich fall colors the leaves assume just before they fall. This is particularly so in eastern North America. When the trees and shrubs are selected for park and garden planting, as much thought may well be given to their autumn colors, as well as to their spring flowers. The trees, shrubs, and vines are divided into groups. This is a partial list of some of the older ones that you may be familiar with already. I have put in the common and botanical name of each variety so that it may be easier to locate a variety.

    *If you are interested in learning exactly how leaves change colors be sure to look up: Why Do Trees Turn Colors in Autumn?

    autumn blaze red maple

    Red Maple- Autumn Blaze

    Trees with Brilliant Color

    The Red Maple, Acer rubrum, often begins to change color before summer is really finished. Individual trees will vary in shades of purple, yellow, orange, crimson and scarlet. The Sugar Maple, A. sacharum, is often evem more brilliant, with yellow, orange, and scarlet. A. ginnala turns crimson and orange, A. nikoense is a brilliant red, such as the Japanese Maples.

    The Sour Gum, Nyssa sylvatica, and the Sorrel Tree, Oxydendrum arboreum, give attractive effects in red, while the Sweet Gum, Liquidambar styraciflua, and Saasafras, Sassafras albidum, are showy with red and yellow shades. The Parrot Tree, Parrotia persica, often a large bush, is highly colored with yellow, orange, and red shades. The Flowering Dogwood, Cornus florida, ends the season in crimson glory. Of the many Hawthorns, the Washington Thorn, Crataegus Phaenopyrum, cockspur Thorn, C, Crus-galli, and Glossy Thorn, C. Nitida, are conspicuous in fall with their orange and scarlet leaves. The Scarlet Oak, Quercus coccinea, gives the brightes color of the Red Oak, Q. Borealis, which is less brilliant but still very colorful.

    Trees That Turn Yellow

    The Moosewood, Acer pennsylvanicum, the Norway Maple, A. Platanoides and the Silver Maple, A. Saccharinum, give solid

    fall foliage

    Beautiful Yellow foliage

    effects in gold, as also does the Tulip Tree, Liriodendron tulipifera, the Maidenhair Tree, Ginkgo biloba, and the Yellow-wood, Cladrastis lutea.

    Birches in general turn yellow, with the Cherry birch, Betula lenta, and the Canoe Birch, B. Papyrifera, especially colorful. Golden Larch, Pseudolarix amabilis, is a lovely sight when the feathery foliage turns bright yellow. The White Ash, Fraxinus americana, is sometimes yellowish, but often the leaves turn chocolate or purplish shades.

    Shrubs with Good Autumn Color

    The Red Chokeberry, Aronia arbutifolia, makes a good showing with orange and red, unless it has been too dry. Of the

    ruby carousel japanese barberry

    Japanese Barberry-Ruby Carousel

    Barberries, the Kansu Barberry, Berberis diaphana, becomes crimson, the Chalkleaf Barberry, B. Dictyophylla, unusual rosy-red and gray, the Korean Barberry, B. Thunbergii, orange and scarlet; and B. Vernae assumes orange tints. All are outstanding varieties.

    Sweet Pepper bush, Clethra alnifolia, turns yellow, as does the Cornelian Cherry, Cornus Mas. The American Smoke Tree, Cotinus americanus, has all its decorative value in its brilliant scarlet and orange fall coloring.

    Enkianthus campanulatus turns a rich red, and E. Perulatus is orange and red. Forsythia viridissima is worth growing for its deep purple fall coloring. Fothergilla monticola turns orange and red; F. Major, yellow and orange. Franklinia alatamaha, sometimes a small tree, turns crimson. The large, lobed leaves of Hydrangea quercifolia take on deep wine-colored tints. Virginia Willow, Itea virginica, assumes brilliant red coloring. Flame Azalea, Rhododendron calendulaceum (Azalea calendulacea) takes on bright tints of orange and red. The Kaempfer Azalea, R. Obtusum Kaempferi, does the same but is somewhat darker; the Royal Azalea, R. Schlippenbachii, becomes yellow to crimson and R. Vaseyi, purple to crimson.

    Maple Leaf Viburnum-'Viburnam acerifolium'

    Several Sumacs also give a brilliant fall coloring, particularly Rhus aromatica, R. copallina, R. Glabra, and R. Typhina. The double-flowered Spiraea prunifolia has bronzy-orange tints and the finer leaved S. Thunbergii is attractive with its orange hues. Satephanandra incsisa produces a pretty effect with its graceful habit and leaves which turn reddish purple. Stewartia korana and S. Ovata are stout shrubs with good orange and red coloring. Syringa oblata dilatata is a Lilac with leaves that color; they turn a winy-red. High-bush Blueberry, Vaccinium corymbosum, is one of the showiest shrubs when its leaves have turned orange and scarlet.

    Among Viburnums, the Dockmackie, Viburnum acerifolium, attracts attention only in the fall when its leaves turn a fine reddish-purple. V. lantana, V. Prunifolium, V. Tomentosum.

    Autumn-Tinted Vines

    The native Virginia Creeper, Parthenocissus quinquefolia, is brilliant in fall with its scarlet leaves. Japanese or Boston Ivy, P. Tricuspidata, brightens up many a wall with scarlet leaves. Glory-Vine, Vitis Coignetiae, makes a striking show when its large leaves turn crimson. So too, does the strong growing V. Davidii, which turns brilliant red.

    I am sure there are some newer varieties that I have not mentioned. These are some of the older standards that have proven to provide beautiful autumn color in your yard or garden.

    By Admin | Posted in Color in the garden | Tagged , , , , | Comments off
    Sep022010

    Why Do Trees Turn Colors in Autumn?

    By Admin | September 2, 2010 | Posted in Color in the garden | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Comments off

    Autumn color, which includes all the reds, yellows, oranges, and purple fall colors, is something many outdoor enthusiast looks forward to each year. All across the country, actually the whole Northern Hemisphere, our daylight hours become shorter and the temperatures begin to fall. This change causes a chemical process in trees to go into action and begins preparing them for the winter season. This article will give you information on the chemical processes that take place in leaves and other valuable information to help you understand the process. A list of fall trees,shrubs, and vines can be found to help you plant your yard with your favorite autumn colors.

    What Causes Color Changes in Leaves?

    The actual color changes are the result of changes in the leafs pigments. There are several different chemicals in plants that cause different colors to appear. There are three major pigments that play an important role in producing autumn colors.

    What Do Chloroplasts Do?

    The chloroplasts are the place within the plant where the process of photosynthesis takes place.

    Activity in a chloroplast

    Chloroplast Absorbs & Reflects Light

    Remember, photosynthesis is the process in which light energy is converted into chemical energy. The light that is absorbed in the chloroplasts, supplies the energy that plants use to transform carbon dioxide and water into oxygen and carbohydrates. A well known formula of Cx(H2O)y.

    In this transformation, the energy of the light that is absorbed by the chlorophyll is then changed and converted into a type of chemical energy that is stored in carbohydrates (sugars and starches). It is this chemical energy that drives the reactions that cause plants to grow, have flowers, and then produce seeds.

    Photosynthesis

    Photosynthesis During Summer

    Chlorophyll

    The green pigment, chlorophyll, in leaves absorbs red and blue light from the sunlight. Since these colors are absorbed, they will not reflect these colors, so the leaves appear to be green. *Remember, sunlight is made up of many colors. The molecules of chlorophyll are large. The chlorophyll attaches to membranes known as chloroplasts, and they are not soluble within the plant cells.

    Chlorophyll is not a stable compound, as bright sunlight causes it to decompose. To keep the same level of chlorophyll, a plant must continually be synthesizing more chemical energy. To do this, as plant must have a lot of sunlight and warm temperatures to be able to continue these processes. That is why during the summer plants are green and growing well, because the plants have the materials they need.

    Carotene      

    Carotene is another pigment found in the leaves of many types of plants. This pigment absorbs blue-green and blue light. When the light is reflected from carotene it appears to be yellow. Carotene is also a large molecule like chlorophyll. When carotene and chlorophyll occur in the same leaf, together they both block out red, blue-green, and blue light from the sunlight, so the result is that it still appears green.

    The energy of the light that carotene absorbs is combined with the chlorophyll, and the energy produced by both are combined in photosynthesis. Carotene is a more stable compound than chlorophyll so it is able to stay in the leaf, even if chlorophyll disappears from the leaf. When only carotene is left in the leaf, it appears to be yellow in color.

    Anthocyanins            

    Another class of pigments that are in leaves is the anthocyanins. Anthocyanins absorb blue, blue-green, and green light. The result is that the light reflected by the leaves will now appear to be red. The anthocyanins, unlike the other two pigments, are not attached to cell membranes, but are actually dissolved in the cell sap.

    The cell sap has a pH value, and these pigments are very sensitive to that pH. If the sap is very acidic, then the color will be a bright red, but if the sap is less acidic, then the results may be a shade of purple.

    *Anthocyanins are also responsible for apples having a red skin, and ripe grapes having a purple skin.

    Anthocyanins are formed from proteins and sugars reacting together within the cell sap. This does not happen until the sugar level in the sap gets very high. Light is also needed for the reaction to take place.

    The Process Flow

    During the warm summer months the leaves on trees produce sugar from carbon dioxide and water by the action of light on chlorophyll. Remember, chlorophyll cause the leaves to appear green.

    Next, water and nutrients flow naturally up from the roots, through the branches, and into the leaves. The sugars produced by photosynthesis in the leaves, will then flow to all parts of the tree. Some of this energy is used for growth and some is stored away. The trigger that causes the changes in the trees is the shortening of the days and the cool autumn nights.

    lost of chlorophyll

    Leaves change colors when chlorophyll levels fall

    Changes within the plant

    One change is the growth of a cork type membrane that is located between the branch and the leaf stem. This membrane interferes with the natural flow of nutrients into each leaf. When this happens, the amount of chlorophyll is reduced, and causes the green color of the leaf to disappear.

    *If the leaf contains carotene, it will will change the leaves from green to bright yellow as the chlorophyll disappears.

    In some types of trees, as the sugar level becomes more concentrated in the leaves, the sugar reacts for form anthocyanins.

    Remember, these are the pigments that cause the yellowing leaves to turn red. This is seen in many red maples, red oaks, and sumac.

    Intensity and Range of Colors- The intensity and range of colors that is produced by a plant is influenced by weather conditions.

    • Low temperatures- destroy chlorophyll, and if the temperature stays above freezing, anthocyanins will form.
    • Bright sunshine- also destroys chlorophyll and produces more anthocyanin.
    • Dry weather- increases sugar concentration in sap, and raised the level of anthocyanins.

    *The best conditions for the brightest autumn colors are produced when we have dry, sunny days, followed by cool, dry nights.

    Fall Foliage Location & Information

    The U.S. Forest Service has a foliage Hotline at (800) 354-4595 that you can access to find information, or, you may choose online info at  USDA Forest Service - Caring for the land and serving people.

    By Admin | Posted in Color in the garden | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Comments off
    Sep012010

    Daylilies- In Search of Distinctive Eyes

    By Admin | September 1, 2010 | Posted in Daylilies | Tagged , , , , | Comments off

    Daylilies are easy to grow and come in many varieties. Some of the popular ones have a distinctive eye, the multi-colors in the throat of the flower, almost giving the appearance of an eye. These colors give the flower depth and produces quite an impact. Wikipedia defines them as members of the genus Hemerocallis.

    They come in many species, hybrids, and cultivars. Daylilies are easy to breed and they produce thousands of variations in the process. You may be wondering, with all the varieties available how you make a decision when you are looking for extra special plants. To narrow the field try to focus on a specific color or flower form. I like the ones with distinctive eyes, so that is the focus of this article.

    American Daylilies & Perennials, have hybridized a “Black Eyed Stella.” It took ten years to get this species to bloom like ‘Stella de ore.’ Varieties with eyes have a great appeal, as do repeat bloomers.

    Favorite Varieties

    daylily eye yi yi

    Eye Yi Yi Daylily

    ‘Eye Yi Yi’ is a bright orange daylily with a cherry eye. The bloom is about 5 ½” and about 30” tall scapes (the height of the flower stalk). The plant is semi-evergreen in the midwest area. It is an early bloomer that blooms around mid June in the Midwest and repeats its blooms later in the season. This one is very popular.

    ‘Stella’s Pink Valentine’ is made of up pink petals with a chartreuse throat and centered with a

    stella's pink valentine

    Stella's Pink Valentine Daylily

    red eye. The smaller 3 1/2” blooms appear in late June atop 16-21” scapes. It rests a bit, then will bloom once again.

    It forms a full clump quickly for creating a great color display. It was a choice selection of the breeder, not only for its beauty, but for its ability to increase rapidly and is a great performer for all USDA zones 4.10.

    “Canadian Border Patrol’ is a bold eyed beauty representing the strong color contrast of black and white. It has 6” pastel

    Daylily canadian border patrol

    Canadian Border Patrol Daylily

    blooms that range from cream-peach to cream-buff, depending on the soil and location. It strongly contrasts the large, dark purple eye that it has. Not consistently, it has a tendency to have a fine line of purple along its edges. This is a nice touch, when it happens to occur. It blooms in late June in the Kansas City area, and reaches a height of 25-26”.

    ‘Radiant Greeting’ is also a favorite of the breeder’s wife. They have grown this variety for several years, but it still ranks at the top of their list. The large blooms are a rich gold, contrasted by a nearly black eye. The wide petals lay open and flat, allowing the full display of the radiant eye. It blooms in mid season at 30” in height and also repeat blooms. It does very good in mass plantings and is a variety that stands out from a distance (carrying power).

    ‘Pandora’s Box’ is a smaller variety with a 4” cream-white bloom and a dark purple eye zone. The fragrant flowers appear atop 18 to 20” scapes above a dark green arching foliage. This does well in zones 4-10. It is consistently dependable, a strong grower, and gives a superb garden presentation.

    Pure White Daylily

    lady elizabeth daylily

    Lady Elizabeth Daylily

    Their new variety for 2010 is ‘Lady Elizabeth.’ This doesn't  have a distinctive eye, but is well worth introducing. This is a pure white and they are very proud of the results they have received on this one. Whites, typically, are genetically weak, but they have overcome these situations with this variety.

    You can find more information on all kinds of flowers and gardening tips at yardandgardenrescue.com. Thanks for visiting our site!

    By Admin | Posted in Daylilies | Tagged , , , , | Comments off
    Aug312010

    Garden Tools: Tools of the Trade

    By Admin | August 31, 2010 | Posted in Garden Tools | Tagged , , , | Comments off

    Garden tools are an essential arsenal that you will need to build up as you progress in your gardening adventures. As you decide to do more DIY projects around your yard, you will need to make sure that you have the essential tools for doing the job the right way. These tools may be comprised of planting supplies, garden tools, and power equipment. There are some tools that are, more or less, standard tools to do everyday jobs around the yard, while others are more specialized for particular jobs.

    When you invest in equipment or tools, be sure to make wise choices when deciding on what to purchase. If it is a large item, I would suggest that you look up some information or talk to a specialist to help you. Often times, a hardware store or supply store will have clientele that can assist in this area.

    You want sturdy, long-lasting tools, so get a handle on them before purchasing. Check grips for comfort, and be sure that the tool size is comfortable for you. For the tools that you will use most often, like spades, shovels, and trowels, buy the highest quality you can afford. A good garden spade may last twenty to thirty years.

    garden tool organizer

    Garden tools nicely organized

    You may also want to invest in a good garden tool organizer. They can be placed in a garage or tool shed to help organize and store all of your equipment and tools.

    When purchasing power equipment for lawn maintenance (mowers, edgers, trimmers), buy from an authorized dealer who will help you choose the correct machine for your application, and also service the equipment and supply extra parts.

    Here are some categories with the tools you will need:

    Gardening Basics: Spade, hoe, garden trowel, garden or bow rake, garden hose, plant stakes, spading or garden fork,

    garden tools

    Small garden tools

    bypass pruner, and a anvil pruner.

    Gardening Extras: Power tiller, Cultivator

    Lawn and Landscaping Basics: Lawn mower (walk behind or riding mower), trimmer, edger,hedge shears, wheelbarrow, shovel, leaf rake, loppers, pruning saw, and sprinkler.

    Lawn and Landscaping Extras: String trimmer, power edger, handheld blower, drop or rotary spreader, hand pump sprayer, hand maul, line level, and hand tamp.

    Carpentry Basics: Hammer, power drill, screwdriver, level, tape measure, carpenter’s square, circular saw, and an adjustable wrench.

    Tool that should be rented: jackhammer, power auger, plate compactor, reciprocating saw, chipper, and a pressure washer.

    Planting Supplies: Gardener’s gloves, kneeler, garden trowel, spading or garden fork, spade, watering can, measuring tape.

    By Admin | Posted in Garden Tools | Tagged , , , | Comments off
    Aug312010

    What Is Drip Irrigation? How Does It WorK?

    By Admin | August 31, 2010 | Posted in Drip Irrigation | Tagged , , , | Comments off

    If you have planted you have planted your flower beds and created container gardens teeming with beautiful plants, you may now wonder how you can insure their well being. The answer is to install a drip irrigation system in your yard or garden. The best way to preserve plantings is to feed them regularly. This should make sense. Right? Proper watering practices are critical for a landscape to grow and thrive. A dilemma of how to deliver a steady amount of water that plant beds need on a consistent basis tends to stump even avid gardeners. Do you want information on drip irrigation, a description, and how it works? This article will give you some helpful information on drip irrigation.

    Most of us are guilty of one of these watering habits: We set and forget sprinkler systems; we remember an occasional douse with a watering can; or, confident in Mother Nature’s ability to do the job without help, we ignore the chore of watering all together. None of these methods will benefit your landscape.

    Thankfully, technology, and a vast assortment of easy-to-install irrigation products on the market, can alleviate the burden of watering. A drip irrigation system is something that you can turn into a DIY project. You will save yourself the worry of over watering. ( How many times have you asked yourself, after pulling out of the driveway, whether you left a sprinkler running or completely forget to turn it on?)

    drip irrigation

    Drip Irrigation Layout

    What is Drip Irrigation?

    Drip irrigation ensures that plants get a gradual, deep soak. Drip systems look like garden hoses with emitters (nozzles) that protrude from the tubing. These emitters deliver water to targeted areas, such as specific plants in a bed. Drip irrigation systems work much like a water fountain with no pressure. Water trickles from emitters and slowly seeps into the soil.

    What is the benefit of drip irrigation?

    The benefit of drip irrigation is that you don’t get the runoff you might with higher-powered sprinkler systems or by hand watering with a garden hose. Also, drip irrigation is ideal for containers and plant beds because you can position emitters according to plant placement, or snake hoses throughout beds to ensure even water coverage.

    drip irrigation

    Placing Drip Line

    Drip Applications

    Drip irrigation isn’t designed to water your lawn, but it is ideal in the following applications: Plant and flower beds, Vegetable gardens, Container plantings, and Beds with trees and ornamentals

    All you need to support a drip system is an outdoor spigot. You can purchase tubing in various lengths and widths, and kits contain connectors and emitters, which allow you to customize the system so it delivers water based on plant placement. For example, you can cut and split a hose into sections, or arrange it along curvy beds. Because you are able to choose the exact placement, you’ll conserve resources while watering. You can drain as much as 400 gallons (1514L) of water per hour from the water table by using a hose. This is far more liquid than your soil will accept, especially if it is primarily composed of clay.

    Drips Should Go Deep

    The importance of deep-root watering is something that Agronomists preach over and over again. This practice ensures that

    drip irrigation deep

    Drip Should Reach Root System

    moisture penetrates the surface and sinks into the soil. This is where roots can soak up the moisture and benefit from its nutrients. Drip irrigation achieves will achieve this. When you water with a hose, you will notice that puddles begin to form. These may eventually grow into miniature lakes, branch off into streams, and run off into other areas of your landscape, causing erosion. Meanwhile, standing water can suffocate young flowers and plants, preventing oxygen from reaching roots. Plants overwhelmed by water are more susceptible to disease.

    The solution is to install a drip irrigation system, which will allow you to feed flowers and plants gradually. Think of it as serving them mini-meals throughout the day. Plants can metabolize, or soak in, the water. Also, because drip irrigation delivers water drop by drop, moisture won’t displace oxygen, and roots will receive both vital nutrients.

    I hope this will encourage you to look into installing a drip irrigation system into your yard or garden. You will find it very worthwhile.

    Tree Gator 98183 20-Gallon Treegator Original Slow-Release Watering Bag Tree Gator 98183 20-Gallon Treegator Original Slow-Release Watering Bag
    Sale Price: $20.01
     

    Description

    Treegator® Portable Drip Irrigation System - You've seen these in professional landscapes around your neighborhood, now you can care for your trees as the pro's do! Reduce plant shock; perfect for soaking trees before digging; adjustable water flow rates;
    Tree Gator 98185R 15-Gallon Treegator Pro Jr Slow-Release Watering System Tree Gator 98185R 15-Gallon Treegator Pro Jr Slow-Release Watering System
    Sale Price: $19.06
     

    Description

    Brown color for low visibility and for low branches. Holds 15 gallons. Size 33" diameter. 6" tall when full. 16 mil brown PVC. Fits up to 4" trees. 4-6 hour drip time; not adjustable. 1 year warranty. 100% absorption with no run-off. Helps reduce transplant stress. Completely saturates root ball, and greatly reduces labor and replacement costs. Recommended for use during water restrictions. 3 year life expectancy.


    By Admin | Posted in Drip Irrigation | Tagged , , , | Comments off
    Aug312010

    How to Make a Creative Planter

    By Admin | August 31, 2010 | Posted in Planting in Containers | Tagged , , | Comments off

    Creative planters only have a few requirements. They must be able to contain soil, tolerate the outdoors, hold plants, and stand a few pokes in the bottom for drainage. Learn a few tips on how to find and plant a creative planter for your deck or patio.

    You can certainly go out and purchase a few sturdy terra-cotta planters at the garden center, or some plastic ones that can have any type of surface on it. But, let’s find something different. Different is good. Landscaping is a personal expression, only in green. It is a perfect way to make your mark on the land and define it as your own.

    Creative Planter

    Car Frame Planter

    Try to think "outside the box," sort of speak. Explore options outside of our normal planter standards.

    *Tip- More info on container planting can be found in an overview of planting in containers, and step-by-step planting in containers. This may be very helpful to you, especially if you have not planted in containers before.

    How to find creative planters

    First of all, you don’t have to think of container, the same way as you normally do. You will be surprised to find how you can

    Creative planter idea

    Planter from Old Shoes

    transform something into useful, unusual containers. Such things as boots, baskets, urns, antique bowls, vintage bathtubs, whiskey barrels, glass bowls, toys, crates, and odd shaped tubs or cans.

    If you have some rural property, an old truck parked in a garden brimming with flowers makes you think of a farmer’s market. With a few easy steps, you can turn just about any item capable of holding something into an expressive container.

    Another neat idea, is to coil rope around a plain old planter. This changes a basic container into one with cowboy appeal, perfect for a cactus. Odd, mismatched shoes once soiled from play, are now filled with soil and serves as an unusual but unique holder.

    Bathtub creative planter

    Old Bathtub Planter

    Supplies Needed

    • Interesting item capable of holding soil
    • Drill or awl
    • Plastic liner
    • Landscape fabric or coco fiber

    Steps

    1. To allow for drainage in a solid container, use a drill or awl to make holes in the bottom of the article you are using.

    2. To prevent excessive leakage in containers such as baskets, line the interior with landscape fabric or coco fiber. Whichever one is easiest to obtain in your area.

    3. Place your soil into the container, and scoop out a little soil and place your plant into the hole.

    Creative Planter

    Yes, even a Bra!

    4. Fill in around the plant with soil and tamp it down firmly.

    5. Water your plant and set it in a nice sunny location.

    6. Remember to check the moisture level regularly. You can add a little fertilizer to the soil when you are feeding your other plants.

    Creative planter keyboard

    Keyboard as a Planter

    *As you can see, just about anything can be transformed into a planter. It can be a bit unusual, but it will be unique and make your yard and garden the talk of the neighborhood. The keyboard on the left can be an actual keyboard that you plant small plants in, Or, it can be an enlarged set of pavers that you write the letters on, making a very interesting enlargement of a keyboard. Wow! You will be amazed when you start digging around in the attic or the basement for items you can use. Have fun!

    The Container Specialist: The Essential Guide to Planting in Containers and Designing, Improving, and Maintaining Container Gardens (Specialist Series) The Container Specialist: The Essential Guide to Planting in Containers and Designing, Improving, and Maintaining Container Gardens (Specialist Series)
    Sale Price: $9.95
     

    Description

    Containers are a perfect solution for every garden, and here is everything a gardener needs to know to make the most of those attractive urns, troughs, tubs, hanging baskets, window boxes and wall pots. This amply illustrated guide simply covers it all, from the basics of which container to choose to advice on seasonal displays, from creating an herb garden to adding a water feature. It explains how to get started; which plants work best in a container (including a range of bedding plants, shrubs, dwarfs, conifers, climbers, and fruit); and how to use containers in lobbies, on porches and patios to soften their appearance, or to form a point of interest at the end of a path.
    The City and Town Gardener: A Handbook for Planting Small Spaces and Containers The City and Town Gardener: A Handbook for Planting Small Spaces and Containers
    Sale Price: $12.99
     

    Description

    Critics' Choice: Voted One of the Year's Best Books by Publishers WeeklyWith 64 pages of color photographs, black-and-white drawings throughout, and an updated list of 100 sources of plants and suppliesHere is the definitive guide for gardening in small spaces and containers, covering planting, design, and maintenance. As delightful as it is comprehensive, this book is written with the warmth, enthusiasm, and clarity that since 1979 has distinguished Linda Yang's columns in the Home Section of The New York Times. It will inspire gardeners coping with the limited confines of a small backyard or front garden, patio, balcony, doorstep, terrace, rooftop, or deck.Reviewers From Coast to Coast Praised the Original Hardcover Edition"[A] crisp, comprehensive handbook...the unmistakable voice of experience."-- Ann Lovejoy, The New York Times Book Review"A wealth of information and inspiration....Is this book comprehensive or what?"-- Mark Stith, Atlanta Journal & Constitution"An invaluable source."-- W. George Waters, Pacific Horticulture"Will save the novice many false steps...highly reassuring of what the result can be."-- Henry Mitchell, The Washington Post"Excellent and encyclopedic."-- Patti Hagan, The Wall Street Journal"The perfect gift for the retired couple moving to a smaller space or the first-time homeowner."-- Marianne Binetti, Bellevue Journal-American"Yang writes knowingly and gracefully of every aspect of her subject."-- Arthur Bertelson, St. Louis Post-Dispatch"[An] excellent reference work."-- Mia Amato, San Francisco Examiner"A mere roster of subjects doesn't convey the fun of reading [this] book."-- Lisa Miller Cagle, The Decatur Daily

    Here is the definitive guide for gardening in small spaces and containers, covering planting, design and maintenance. As delightful as it is comprehensive, this book is written with the warmth, enthusiasm, and clarity that since 1979 has distinguished Linda Yang's columns in the Home Section of the New York Times. It will inspire gardeners coping with the limited confines of a small backyard or front garden, patio, balcony, doorstep, terrace, rooftop, or deck. Handsomely designed and eminently readable, with many color photos.


    By Admin | Posted in Planting in Containers | Tagged , , | Comments off
    Aug302010

    John Deere 420, 425, 430, and 455

    By Admin | August 30, 2010 | Posted in John Deere Mowers and Tractors | Tagged , , , | Comments off

    The John Deere 420, 425,and 455, are either garden or agricultural tractors that are in the 400 Series of mowers. These models were preceded by the innovative John Deere 400 which reached the height of the market by offering power steering, and more horsepower on their tractors.

    *Some newer models of John Deere will take snowblower attachments, as well as a John deere bagger.

    John Deere 420

    John Deere 420 Tractor

    John Deere 420

    The 420 was manufactured by John Deere from 1983 to 1991. It featured a rugged 20hp, 781cc. Onan 2-cycle gasoline engine and had a 6 ½ gallon fuel tank. It featured an electric independent front and rear PTO. It weighed around 915 lbs. The John Deere 420 had front tires 18 x 8 1/2-8 and rear tires 26 x 12-12. This model had a wheelbase of 52 inches and a 4 x 2 2WD chassis with hydrostatic power steering. This feature made the 400 Series stand out head over heels from the competition, as well as the horsepower of the engines. It took their competitors 5 years to come up with comparable results on the Cub Cadet. The 420 had an alternator and 12 volt battery.

    John Deere 425

    The 425 has a 20hp Kawasaki, V-twin, liquid-cooled engine with full-pressure lubrication. This model had a replaceable oil

    John Deere 425

    John Deere 425 tractor mower

    filter, and power steering for good control. It had a cruise control feature that appeared standard. PTO hydraulics with tilt steering and hydrostatic transmission.

    Heavy-duty frames were a feature that other brands did not have at the time. It had a 3 point hitch that was available as an option. The standard sized mower deck measured 54” on this model, but it had an option of purchasing a 48” or a 60” mower deck. It had no-clutch shifting and gave infinite ground speed control. The weight of this tractor was 955 lbs. (2WS), or 1050 lbs. (4WS).

    *You can find manuals and parts catalogs on line if you are looking for a specific part, or maintenance kits.

    John Deere 430

    John Deere 430 Diesel

    John Deere 430

    The John Deere 430 was in production from 1958 to 1960. It was available in several different versions. It sold originally in 1960 for about $2500. It featured three different types of fuel usage: a 2 cycle gas engine, a 2 cycle all-fuel model (10 ½ gal.tank), and a 2 cycle LP gas model (20 gal. Tank) It weighed about 3,250 lbs., with a front tire 5.00-15 and a rear tire measuring 9-24. It was available in row-crop,high-crop, utility, and crawler versions. It featured a 4 x 2 2WD chassis and a drawbar 27.1hp and a PTO of 29.2hp.

    John Deere 455

    The John Deere 455 had a 22hp Yanmar liquid-cooled diesel engine in it. It had 3 cylinders with a hydrostatic transmission.

    John Deere 455

    John Deere 455

    Cruise control came standard on this model as well. It also came with the standard heavy-duty robotically welded frame. It had the tilt steering feature and weighed 1115 lbs.(2WS) or 1210 lbs. (AWS). The 455 also had the standard 54” deck with the same option of the 425 model of having a 48” or 60” deck.

    You can find many related articles as well as information on many John Deere tractors, snow attachments, and equipment.

    By Admin | Posted in John Deere Mowers and Tractors | Tagged , , , | Comments off
    Aug302010

    John Deere 400-Predecessor of the 420,425,430,and 455

    By Admin | August 30, 2010 | Posted in John Deere Mowers and Tractors | Tagged , , , , | Comments off

    The John Deere 400 model is a garden tractor, the first in the 400 series of tractors. It was produced from 1975-1983. It is a heavy duty tractor that may be found listed as non-current equipment since it is out of production. There are many of these riding mowers that are still in circulation today. They are used by homeowners as well as commercial businesses to keep their property easily cut and maintained.

    The 400 preceded the following models: John Deere 420, John Deere 425, John Deere 430, and John Deere 455. The 400 series dominated the market at the time with its power steering as a standard feature. It took its competition 5 years to come up with anything that could come close to the 400 series. the 400 series reigned for about 8 years before the next models were introduced. Each featuring something new and better for the consumer to take delight in.

    John Deere 400

    John Deere 400 with 60" Deck

    John Deere 400

    The John Deere 400 Series offered, not only style, and a larger size, it also offered features that were new to the market. The power steering feature was the ultimate at this time. It also offered additional performance advantages, including more engine horsepower and torque. This model features a 19.9 hp, dual cylinder Kohler gasoline engine with an oil filter. It had a 2 speed hydrostatic transaxle and a rear mounted 4 ½ gal.fuel tank. It had 3 spools of hydraulics, 2 remote and 1 for the rockshaft. It had a 60” PTO driven mower deck and a snowthrower.

    Optional:

    Attachments could be easily installed with the Rockshaft installed category “0” three point hitch.

    The 400 Series tractors are compatible with options such as, John Deere bagger, front blades, snow throwers, and other tow behind tools for different jobs.

    The 400 Series that includes the 420, 425, 430, and 455 also gives advantages in the range of horsepower that each model

    john deere 400 with Blade

    John Deere with Blade Attachment

    provides. They range from around 20 to 22 hp., and have cutting widths from 48 to 60 inches. By providing more torque, the 400 Series is able to have attachments such as the 40 Loader, or the 450 Rotary Tiller.

    Used John Deere 400 series tractors and replacement parts can be found online. In some cases the parts may be substituted for another, but it advised to check with an authorized dealer who can look up the correct part number and help you attain the specific part you may be needing.

    *Helpful information on many  John Deere Models can be found to help answer questions concerning your specific John Deere model.

    By Admin | Posted in John Deere Mowers and Tractors | Tagged , , , , | Comments off